Is vegan leather, even if it exists, really sustainable?

And no ! Just like dry water, vegan leather does not exist.

This expression is indeed nonsense. Leather, by definition, comes from animal skin. "Vegan" means a lifestyle in its own right where one does not consume / use any product from animal exploitation (not limited to diet). Combining these two terms is therefore surprising to say the least.

Consumers should inform themselves and be wary of this catch-all association often put forward to justify a more ethical and sustainable approach. Because, beyond being incoherent, this term often brings together a set of new materials that are not always ecologically ideal or respectful of life.

We recently came across an ad from a sneaker brand promoting their new “more sustainable, vegan leather” collection. Sustainable compared to what? We do not know. When we look at the material used, we notice that it is a good old imitation leather as it has been around for decades. It's also the kind of material we used so we know what we're talking about 😊 .

Why is it complex to qualify this material as sustainable? Quite simply because it has positive and negative points.

GOOD: not from animal exploitation, no living being was killed in the process of creation

GOOD: does not participate in mass breeding which is the main factor of deforestation in the world (+ soil erosion, drying up of rivers, etc.)

NOT GOOD: made of synthetic polyamide fibers coagulated in a resin (usually polyurethane, known as PU)

NOT GOOD: from petrochemical processes that are harmful to the workers who apply them, especially from non-European suppliers*

*Our suppliers are subject to European REACH regulations which deal with the use and disposal of chemicals.

Again the criterion of durability depends on where you place your priority slider. For MEEKO, it was unthinkable to use animal materials given our commitments and our personal convictions. This does not mean that these choices should be the same for all brands.

For others, it will be the natural and biodegradable aspect that will prevail. In this case, vegetable-tanned leather (chromium-free), often referred to as "vegetable leather", will be considered more durable than imitation leather. In the case of chemical tanning, the skin will no longer be biodegradable and the environmental impact will then become colossal. No Manichaean vision, everyone is free to find out about these materials and make their own choices.

If the debate can therefore exist between a European chrome-free leather and a European imitation leather of REACH certified quality, there is no possible comparison with materials made in Bangladesh.

Indeed, developing countries have thrown themselves into the leather industry, with much less strict standards in terms of labor law and ecology: 90% mortality before the age of 50 for workers, workers under 10 years, destruction of ecosystems, poisoning, etc.

Whatever your ethical or ecological priorities, none will be respected there… Remember that when you pay for a cheap product, a living being pays the price somewhere on the planet.

The 1st ^MEEKO collection, the running Coco Pongo, is vegan (certified by PETA) and partly recycled. Below is the detailed composition:

Reinforcements 1: imitation leather (certified Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 class I – without agents harmful to health) - Spain

Reinforcements 2: microsuede (certified Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 class I – without agents harmful to health) – Spain

Canopy: recycled plastic fiber mesh – Spain

Lining and laces: organic cotton - Spain

Soles: EVA and recycled rubber - Portugal

In a future article we will analyze the more natural alternatives that are emerging everywhere (pineapple, grapes, apple, cactus, enough to make a great cocktail).

Real sustainable innovation or false good idea? The subject promises to be thorny (cactus…thorny…you have it?).

Thanks for reading.