The phenomenon of sneaker drops and marketplaces: is it sustainable?

Whether for a sportswear or streetwear style, sneakers have always had an important place in urban fashion. Consumers' enthusiasm for this pair of comfortable shoes is pushing major brands to produce more and more new models. This is why they opt for collaborations in limited editions, allowing them to target a niche audience that does not hesitate to invest a small sum in a rare model. This has also allowed the emergence of several sites for the resale of collectible sneakers.

In 2019, for example, the international sneaker resale industry was estimated at over $6 billion, out of a $100 billion global market. But what about the impact of this phenomenon on the environment? Are sneaker drops and marketplaces sustainable? Let’s review the positives and negatives of this phenomenon

Today's flagship sneaker drop sites and marketplaces

The development of the sneaker market has allowed other brands to take advantage of consumers looking for rare gems to complete their collection. Indeed, addicted sneakers do not hesitate to spend a nice sum when a pair attracts them and catches their eye. This is why the collaborations of the big brands are currently experiencing great excitement. This is for example the case of Nike and Dior who released the Air Dior, a collection limited to only 13,000 copies. This makes the pairs even more desirable, especially since 5,000 of them are specially made for loyal Dior customers.

So, as these are limited edition collections, not all sneaker enthusiasts wanting a new pair are satisfied. This is where sneaker drop sites and marketplaces like Wethenew , Kikikicz or Uncle J come into play. These are platforms that sell and resell rare pairs of sneakers so that everyone can have access to them. A meticulous verification system is often put in place to certify the authenticity of pairs of sneakers. The shoes are either limited models, or deadstock (new and no longer sold by the brand), or refurbished to new. They come with a certificate of authenticity and all the original accessories like the second pair of laces, interchangeable accessories, etc.

The resale of collectible sneakers: a positive point?

The excitement around sneakers and the world of streetwear through drop sites and marketplaces is a very positive point for the market. This allows enthusiasts to find the rare pearl among a large collection of brand shoes:

• Nike Air Max, Nike Zoom, Nike Air Force, Nike Cortez, Air Jordan, Air Huarache…
• Puma (Sweden, Wild Rider, Future Rider, etc.),
• Converse (Chuck Taylor All Star, One Star Blocked, Cozy Granola, etc.),
• Adidas (Stan Smith, Superstar, etc.),
• Etc.

This phenomenon is also part of an ecological approach when it comes to second-hand sneakers. Indeed, resale gives a second life to limited edition pairs often neglected by their owners. Which is sort of a recycling technique. The refurbishment can concern one or more parts of the shoe: the tongue, the soles (the outsole, the midsole and the insole), the heel, the upper, and all the parts that can be touched up.

The fact that the pairs are in limited editions also reduces the waste produced by the manufacture of these sports shoes. In this sense, resale extends the life of sneakers.

The disadvantages of this fast fashion phenomenon

Although the enthusiasm for sneaker drops and marketplaces is beneficial in the sense that it limits the production of waste, demand remains very strong. This is why collaborations are becoming more and more numerous. In fact, Fabian Gorsler, the author of Highsnobiety and sneakerhead says that there are now several new models fresh out of collaborations with stars, footballers, movies and even video games, every week. In addition to satisfying a niche clientele in the field of sneakers, these collaborations still enter into a rapid distribution model, leading to overconsumption, and therefore, a phenomenon of fast fashion, sadly known as being one of the factors massive destruction of the environment.

There is also the question of the price which is sometimes much cheaper than the launch prices of the model. Since this is a pair that is no longer in trend at the moment, prices can indeed decline relatively. The ease of payment offered by these players in the resale of sneakers also contributes to maintaining the enthusiasm for this practice.

Another fact that is not often brought up about sneaker drops and marketplaces is the existence of counterfeits. In order to meet this strong demand linked to the scarcity of products on sale, several manufacturers go so far as to create models that are almost identical to real pairs of sneakers. The manufacture of these shoes does not always follow the standards both in terms of quality and in terms of the production cycle.

What solutions to choose for a more sustainable sneaker industry?

Several sneakerheads have realized the seriousness of the situation with regard to the environment and this overconsumption industry. Thus, the trend tends towards highlighting old pairs of sneakers that are on these drop sites in order to promote a second life.

With the aim of a more environmentally friendly approach, manufacturers and major brands can turn to the use of biosourced and recycled raw materials. The creation of replaceable or recyclable soles can also be a solution in the field of refurbishment.

In order to reduce their impact and better organize production, a presale system can also be put in place so that the manufacturer can have an idea, even an approximate one, of the number of pairs to be made.

But what is most important is to think carefully about the life cycle of sneakers from design, choice of raw materials, manufacturing, use to end of life.

These solutions, MEEKO has already incorporated and assimilated them since its creation. The models respond to a well-thought-out production cycle to positively promote their impact on the environment.